Vi è un periodo della storia della moda americana che
prende il nome dal triste conflitto che divise gli Stati dal 1861
al 1865 e che viene perciò definito CIVIL WAR FASHION,
poiché Civil War, ovvero Guerra Civile, gli americani chiamarono e chiamano tutt'oggi quella che noi europei definiamo Guerra di Secessione; non sto qui a farvi ripassare le tristi fasi del conflitto che per ragioni economiche e politiche, non ultima quella dell'abolizionismo, coprì di sangue le vaste praterie americane, dal 12 aprile del 1861 al 9 aprile del 1865, praticamente quattro anni esatti di cruenti combattimenti che costarono cifre impensabili quanto a vittime umane, e durante i quali, per me in modo non del tutto spiegabile, tanto gli abiti quanto i cappellini da signora raggiunsero, secondo il mio gusto, l'apice della loro bellezza, per la grazia e la femminilità che li connotavano e furono senza dubbio alcuni gli anni che vanno dal 1860 al 1865 quelli più belli della moda vittoriana americana.
Ho pensato di dividere questo argomento che trovo incantevole in due parti, una da dedicare ai copricapo ed una agli abiti, il post sarebbe risultato troppo lungo e non esaustivo... allora, siete pronte, signore, per godere della bellezza di questi cappellini fatti di velluto, trini e quant'altro ?Lasciatevi prendere per mano e condurvi da una modista del tempo ... siete pronte a sognare ad occhi aperti ?ed in una del Peterson's Magazine del giugno 1862 che cosa, in modo più stilizzato, intendo dire:
venivano questi chiamati SPOON BONNET, ovvero cappellini a cucchiaio per questa loro particolare forma; la stoffa ovviamente variava con il variare delle stagioni, dal velluto, alla seta, alla paglia e al trine per coprire il capo durante il periodo più caldo dell'anno...
Le signore di una certa età preferivano ornarsi il capo 'semplicemente' coprendolo con preziosi pizzi e ricercati merletti, magari di provenienza parigina o fiamminga,
Se qualcuno mi chiedesse di scegliere sarei davvero nel più completo imbarazzo ...
Spero che abbiate gradito anche questo nostro 'viaggio' e, fino al prossimo, che l'amore e la gioia siano con voi,
a presto ♥
Bibliografia:
Mark Campbell, R. L. Shep, Civil War Ladies: Fashions and Needle-Arts of the Early 1860's, R. L. Shep, 2001;
Mandy Foster, Dannielle Perry, American Civil War Era Fashion Plates: Godey's Lady's Book: 1860-1865, CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform, 2008;Mandy Foster, Dannielle Perry, American Civil War Era Fashion Plates: Peterson's Magazine: 1860-1865, CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform, 2008;Kate Havelin, Hoopskirts, Union Blues, and Confederate Grays: Civil War Fashions from 1861 to 1865, Twenty First Century Books, 2011;Danielle M. Perry, Mandy L. Foster, Fashionable Bonnets from the Introduction of the Ambrotype in 1854 Through the End of the American Civil War in 1865: A Study For Extant Bonnets, Photographs, and Fashion Plates, Create Space Independent Publishing Platform, 2011;Anita Stamper, Jill Condra, Clothing Through American History: The Civil War Through the Gilded Age, 1861-1899, Greenwood Pub Group, 2010.
There is a period in the history of American fashion that is
named after the sad conflict dividing the States from 1861 to
1865 and which is therefore defined CIVIL WAR FASHION,
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for Civil War, Americans called and still call what we Europeans call the War of Secession; I'm not here to make you review the sad stages of the conflict that for economic and political reasons, not least that of abolitionism, covered with blood the vast and peaceful American prairies, from April 12th,1861 to April 9th,1865, almost exactly four years of bloody fighting which costed unthinkable figures as to human victims, and during which, for me not so entirely explicable, the gowns and the hats for lady reached, according to my taste, the height of their beauty, grace and femininity which connoted them and they were undoubtedly the years ranging from 1860 to 1865 the most beautiful of the American Victorian Fashion.
I decided to divide this topic, which I find so very charming, in two parts, one dedicated to the headdress and one to the clothes, the post would have result too long and not exhaustive ... then, are you ready, my ladies, to enjoy the beauty of these bonnets made of velvet, trini and so on ?
Let's take you by hand and lead to a milliner's time ... are you're ready to daydreaming?
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The forehead rises to become the point of strenght, aesthetically speaking, of the whole headdress, the face is discovered and is adorned inside of a padding made of lace, artificial flowers, ribbons of silk giving sweetness of expression to anyone ... in my opinion this can be defined fashion, as able to make more graceful and pretty also those who in nature, alas, aren't so equipped ...
I'm showing you in a page of the Godey's Lady's Book of July 1864
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and in one of the Peterson's Magazine, dating back to June 1862 what, in a more stylized way, I mean:
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these were called SPOON BONNET, for their particular size recalling a spoon; the fabrics of course varied with the changing of the seasons, from velvet and silk in winter, to straw and laces to cover the head during the hottest time of the year ...
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The ladies of a 'certain age' preferred to adorn their head 'just' covering it with precious and sophisticated laces, maybe coming from Paris or from Flanders,
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while young girls still went on wearing the POKE BONNET, so useful for those who lived in the countryside - where they were still were in vogue the PIONEER STYLE CAPS - or working in the sun, to protect their face and eyes.
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If someone would ask me to choose I would be really in complete embarrassment ...
I hope you enjoyed even this 'journey' of ours and, until the next time, hope that love and joy be with you,
see you soon ♥
Bibliographic sources:Mark Campbell, R. L. Shep, Civil War Ladies: Fashions and Needle-Arts of the Early 1860's, R. L. Shep, 2001; Mandy Foster, Dannielle Perry, American Civil War Era Fashion Plates: Godey's Lady's Book: 1860-1865, CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform, 2008;
Mandy Foster, Dannielle Perry, American Civil War Era Fashion Plates: Peterson's Magazine: 1860-1865, CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform, 2008;Kate Havelin, Hoopskirts, Union Blues, and Confederate Grays: Civil War Fashions from 1861 to 1865, Twenty First Century Books, 2011;Danielle M. Perry, Mandy L. Foster, Fashionable Bonnets from the Introduction of the Ambrotype in 1854 Through the End of the American Civil War in 1865: A Study For Extant Bonnets, Photographs, and Fashion Plates, Create Space Independent Publishing Platform, 2011;Anita Stamper, Jill Condra, Clothing Through American History: The Civil War Through the Gilded Age, 1861-1899, Greenwood Pub Group, 2010.